Three Months, Countless Beers: Why Accra Stole My Heart (Potholes and All)

Let’s get the honest part out first, because real travel isn’t all sunshine: Ghana’s roads are rough. Potholes that could eat a small car, endless traffic jams in Accra that turn quick trips into endurance tests, bumpy dirt tracks, and minibus rides that left my back reminding me of every bump for days.

On top of that, corruption in government felt painfully open and constant. Almost everyone I met complained about it—in markets, over beers, in taxis, or just chatting: “They steal everything,” “Nothing gets done,” “The money vanishes while we hustle.” It was a shared frustration that colored so many conversations and made the everyday grind feel heavier.

But here’s what truly matters: despite those real challenges, I fell head over heels in love with Ghana. Three months there changed me, and I already can’t wait to go back.

The food? Total surprise and obsession. I wasn’t expecting it to hit so hard, but groundnut soup with perfect fufu, smoky jollof rice worth every debate, waakye from street vendors at dawn, and grilled tilapia so fresh and spiced. Every meal felt like comfort wrapped in flavor.

The music kept everything alive: Afrobeat and reggae blasting from every corner—market speakers, tro-tro rides, beach bonfires, live bands turning nights into pure energy. I danced more freely than I ever have, letting the rhythms shake off the day.

 

The people were the real magic. So friendly, so chatty, and English everywhere made connecting effortless. Strangers called me “sister” or “brother” in seconds, smiles came naturally, and conversations flowed over shared plates, cold drinks, or just waiting in line. They were warm, welcoming, and genuinely interested—it felt like instant family. 

And the women? Stunning in every sense—vibrant kente prints, bold modern styles, effortless confidence and grace that lit up streets and inspired me daily.

The beaches sealed the deal: palm-lined shores where the sun was hot but that constant cool Atlantic breeze kept it comfortable. Lazy days at Labadi or quieter spots, toes in the sand, waves rolling, distant music drifting—pure peace and escape.

Overall, Ghana gave me joy, connection, flavors and sounds I still crave, and a sense of belonging I didn’t expect. The frustrations were real, but the love was so much bigger. I loved the country deeply, and I’m already planning my return.  

In this page, I’ll share the full, unfiltered experience—the bumps, the beauty, the food that changed me, the music that moved me, the people who welcomed me, and why Ghana has my heart.

Akwaaba—welcome. Come along for the stories.

ON ARRIVAL

Kotoka International Airport – Accra (3/5)

Arriving……..a complete nightmare, two and a half hours getting out of the place…….due to having to take another silly covid test (in case I somehow got it off the pilot or someone else on the plane), then people having to look at my passport again and again and again……. after a long flight the last thing one wants is to be stuck in long queues.

Interesting that the Covid test had a huge mark up for foreigners…….

On departure, much better…….bag drop, Covid test, rearranging of flights, walking around and killing time, all fine…….and everything went smooth. So a contrast

On the aesthetics, its a decent looking airport, nice and spacious, with the right amount of small restaurants and cafes and shops.

PLACES TO EAT 

Barcelos Restaurant, Junction Mall (4/5)

• JW7G+9X8, Accra, Ghana

Pizza and beer: pizza to collect and beer to drink.

Good service, professional

Didn’t have to wait too long for my pizza.

Pizza was pretty good and had enough to expand it on for another day…..

Zion Thai Restaurant (2/5)

• Mission St, Accra, Ghana

Our friend was very eager to introduce us to Thai food as he had experienced it in the States, and it is one of his favourite styles of food. Us other three had never tried Thai and were so eager to test these dishes…

Finger food ordered at start, which was just about ok, too salty and not really much in terms of actual tastes……

Followed by the main dishes…….. chicken/beef curries Thai style……. which to be honest were a bit dry and not really nourishing. To drink we had some beers and tried the cocktails (an “Abortion” was a popular choice!) We also tried the chili’s, that were well hot……..

The manager had come over to us for a nice chat, and to tell us about his business, and he was a total gentleman so its not so easy to report that the food was sub par…… perhaps late at night we got the bottom of the pan? Overall, a disappointment.

Tandoor Indian Restaurant (4/5)

• Soula Close, Accra, Ghana

Rated as one of the top restaurants in Accra, not having Indian in such a long time (the good old London days), and wanting to introduce my Ghanaian friends to these dishes……we arrived at Tandoor, in excited anticipation.

The restaurant is off a quiet cul de sac, and the interior is something to behold, a very good effort in creating an Indian style atmosphere…….excellent. Took our table, and ordered some small dishes at the start, the usual samosas and a sheekh kebab roll (that was so delicious, we ordered another one!).

For mains we tried chicken vindaloo, beef biryani, standard mix grill, and a lamb dish. A lot to order but we were hungry. The food took a little while to come and we wondered if they actually had to go off and get some of the ingredients to complete the order……(we were sure we had seen a waiter come in with a big bag of rice!)

The dishes got a mixed response, some we liked (biryani, kebab roll), others not so much. I personally thought the food was pretty good, decent enough standard for an Indian restaurant., but I don’t think my Ghanaian friends are just ready for this kind of food. They were not won over. We had the usual beers and drinks and then before we left ordered a variety of ice creams, all of which went down much better than the hot food previously…….

Got to meet the owner of the establishment, who told us a bit about the history of the restaurant, passed down though the family line (more or less). Nice guy and I wish him success….. . My main issue was the bill. I feel it was very expensive for the portions we got and it is not exactly fine dining…….. for that reason I was very disappointed.

Frankie’s Foods and Rooms (5/5)

• Oxford St, Accra, Ghana

When I had seen the menu I definitely was not expecting much, a Jack of all trades, master of none in that the restaurant offered Indian, Chinese, Lebanese, Mexican, Italian and a variety of fast food and local dishes. I mean wow, ha ha, that is strange!

But we both went for chicken, I for the fried and my friend for the grilled.

Food came very fast and served with a smile.

Have to say the chicken was great, exactly what I expect from a simple dish like this….crackling and tasting delicious.

It’s such a surprise though that many restaurants struggled with making a simple dish like this, so I was happy to eat some decent fried chicken.

And the value of the meal with beers was very reasonable……. Excellent, no messing!

Azmera Restaurant (3/5)

• 9 Sir. Arku Korsah Rd, Accra, Ghana

First time trying traditional Ghanaian food, upon entering I was hit by a foul smell, one of the local dishes……..that has a strong aroma, I actually thought it was my face mask that was smelly, ha ha.

It’s an all you can eat, for 100 Cedis, and the staff were very nice to explain to me, the novice, the local and most popular Ghana dishes…….one by one. Very kind of them and was interesting to see.

The Covid rules were overkill though, we had to put on gloves when going around the tables looking at the food on display, but were expected to take them off and use new gloves every time we wanted a new dish. A bit silly me thinks, as other all you can eats don’t do this.

As for the food, as was still new to Ghanaian food I just ordered the red red (beans stew) twice over….. It was ok and I enjoyed it.

But to be honest the other dishes just didn’t look appetizing for me…….

Capitol Cafe & Restaurant (4/5)

• 5 Fifth Link Rd, Accra, Ghana

Nice place, and was busy for the time of day that was in it, late afternoon on the weekend……good atmosphere too.

Sat down outside, and ordered a Chicken Shish Kebab, which came fast and served with a smile.

Meal was fine, but was a little disappointing not to get any beer with my dishes, so coke would have to do….

Overall, the food was very tasty.

Pinocchio Gelateria Pizzeria, East Legon (5/5)

• JRQX+GVF, Jungle Ave, Accra, Ghana

Rated very highly we had to check this place out. As someone who loves pizza sure why not. My three guests were not so sure, but we ventured in, took our seats and looked at the menu.

First impressions was the place was quite small, but there was a very steady stream of customers in and out buying ice cream…..which was very interesting to see.

Also we could get a good view of the traditional style pizza over at the back which was well cool. We proceeded to order 3 pizzas, a chicken one, a seafood one and one with parma ham. All three looked great, but we decided the chicken one was the best so after we quickly wolfed down the three regular sized pizzas, we went for another order of that but this time in XL size! Which of course we couldn’t finish, but we had as a take out, and it seemed I was eating slices of it for my supper all week!

After the main food we decided it would be remiss of us not to try the lovely ice creams on display……and there was so many interesting flavours…. I went for the bubblegum flavour and Yes it was delicious. All in agreement the ice-creams were fabulous.

Service was good too, friendly and efficient…..we were served by a young lad who told us it was his first job since leaving school……it was good to see him hitting the ground running……as he came over to check on us regularly, which was very good.

Overall we all loved this restaurant…..the food was fresh, well cooked, and more importantly tasted damn good. We liked it so much we infact ordered take outs from it the week after.

Abajo (4/5)

• Accra, Ghana

Went here for some traditional Ghanaian dishes, nice and cozy place, quiet in the middle of the day.

Ordered my fav dish red red with a side order of chips, and also some Jollof rice and fried chicken, and some garden-egg sauce, all washed down with some Guinness.

Food was served fast, and all tasted perfectly.

We were all full after our dishes and drinks.

Nice place, and could have stayed longer if I wasn’t in a rush home.

Only negative was that waiter was grumpy and didn’t seem in the mood. A smile would kill him. Good value too, not going to break the bank.

Oak Plaza Hotel, East Airport (4/5)

• JRFV+2W9 Dede PLaza, Spintex Rd, Accra, Ghana

Was here for lunch. Can actually get food at three places in this hotel, near the pool, at the Jam Rock restaurant, upstairs at the Lucida restaurant, or from the near bar, Joe’s Bar.

Went to Lucida restaurant, and they had an all you can eat for 100 cedis, for Ghanaian food. It actually looked quite good, but I asked if they had a set menu too and they had…..actually three menus, from their three places I had mentioned.

I ordered a Prime Beef Burger from Joe’s Bar menu for a reasonable 60 cedis, as my friend went for the all you can eat. My friend was delighted with the food, getting a few good sized portions, and also enjoying the coconut drink that had a hint of alcohol in it too. For me the burger was a big disappointment, it fell apart when I cut it open, looked like it was an old burger with the taste and flavours squeezed out of it.

As I ate it fast, and my friend was still eating, I ventured for another dish from Joe’s Bar. This time I went for the Fettuccini for 70 cedis . Again good value. The dish took forever to arrive and I had to ask twice about it, taking well over 40 minutes. But to be fair it was off the menu from the bar and it was late in the day….. And when it did arrive I have to say it tasted fantastic, and I really enjoyed it. So much so I was willing to give them a pass for the burger!!!

The food was good and we enjoyed eating our lunch here. Afters, we went to the bar proper, Joes Bar, right beside the Lucida, and had a drink and ordered some ice creams, which was also quite good and a reasonable price.

Overall we had a good time eating out here and the prices of the dishes, beers and all the rest wasn’t too bad. Also to add, the guy playing the sax was great and added to the nice atmosphere at the restaurant.

 

The Living Room Restaurant (5/5)

• Living Room, La-Bawaleshi Rd, Accra, Ghana

Living room was a favourite during my time in Accra, had 4/5 meals here with drinks and in the company of good friends.

A great place to while away a few hours over good food and great company. You know its a good place to eat as its always full and packed to the brim. People know a good place when they see one and its good to come early to get a good parking spot and space to sit……as this place is always busy.

I usually order the red red, but on occasion I ventured out for other dishes……..food is usually served fast enough, and with a smile (Sami was a favourite waiter of ours, pleasant and efficient).

Drinks are cool, and the atmosphere is always relaxed.

Football is on the TV’s as well for anyone who wants to catch up on the weekend results……

Also to add, the prices are very reasonable too.

Overall I liked this place, as I always left full and happy.

 

NIGHT TIME ACTIVTIES 

Serenity Beach Resort Ghana (5/5)

• Sakumono beach road Sakumono beach road, Tema, Ghana

As the sun goes down, lovely place to relax, have some beers and some light food……and with the DJ pumping out some classics……excellent venue.

Location is everything!

The Honeysuckle Pub & Restaurant- East Legon (3/5)

• A&C Mall, East Legon, Accra, Ghana

Came here as they had advertised they had Murphy’s and Guinness on tap……..which I should have guessed was a load of codswallop, as they didn’t, in fact the bar staff hadn’t the foggiest what I was asking for them……..that is false advertising right there!

Settled to have a few beers and watch some live football……..Liverpool were losing to West Ham, and so the atmosphere was good.

After the game we went to the side building attached to the pub that had two pool tables that were of an impeccable standard and well looked after.

Overall a good few hours at this pub, but still no real Guinness in this part of Accra!

Ace Nightclub (1/5)

• No. 9 Klottey Crescent, Accra, Ghana

Arriving a little early we were told that there was no one in the club yet, although with our own eyes we could clearly see that was a load of old rubbish……..then he made up some excuse about our clothes and footwear, and then finally relented to let us in if we gave him 200 cedis…ha ha, what a plonker…..

+233 Jazz Bar & Grill (2/5)

• Dr Isert St, Accra, Ghana

Was here for a Saturday night, and after a struggle to get in as the security and door men were very strict, we did eventually take our seats at the front. Door men were fussy, and it felt like it was a privilege just to be allowed in the door……..we also had to pay for the live music, something that is very unusual in a city teeming with good live music….

Beers came fast and the band we saw were fine…….but they finished pretty early……having paid for a good night we were all packed and ready to go by 11.00……..

Clientele was a lot of the older foreign brigade, not quite the life and soul of the party, and overall our time here was not exactly “fun”.

Purple Pub Osu (5/5)

• Ring Rd E, Accra, Ghana

For the wild part of Accra’s nightlife, ha ha, good for watching the interesting and the mad walk by, while listening to some music from the Dj and cool drinks to boot.

Just be aware of the toilets! Ha ha.

Fugo Bar And Restaurant (4/5)

• 14 Jungle Road, 1st Christian Centre Link, Accra, Ghana

Pretty chilled place, nice to have a few drinks as the sun goes down……nice and relaxing.

Fridays Bar & Restaurant (1/5)

• JWCQ+G24, Sakumono, Ghana

Here twice. First time with friends, was good fun, food and beer were fine, music was good.

All in all a good night, except when the bill came……about 1900 cedis, which on reflection we all decided was obscene.

Second time around, and with my first bill in mind……..music was excellent (an all female band playing reggae) was brilliant……again food and beers were fine.

But the manager was going around hassling people, acting like a right gombeen man, and when he gave a free bottle of wine to the white woman and her Ghanaian friend in front if us………us that are actually spending money in your joint, was a little annoying….especially as we were cheated on the first night…..

Anyway, music good (that is the one star), shame about the staff and management.

Next Door Beach Resort (1/5)

• Accra, Ghana

Waiting well over an hour just to get some beers. Kind of funny. Only two oldish looking guys serving customers that were scattered all over. Bit of a shame as they could really do a lot with a place like this……but its run down, no service and gone to ruins…….

 

The only thing going for it is the beautiful views and that is free……..

 

Luckily we were not in such a bad mood for our wait, an hour with repeated reminders, as the sun going down kept us in good spirits.

NunguaDreamland Beach Resort (4/5)

• Accra, Ghana

Friendly owner, welcomed us with a nice welcome.

Had a nice cold beer or two, played some pool on a very rocky and slanted table.

Enjoyed the views….

Noticed they had an English Breakfast on their extensive food menu, so we told them we’d be back the next morning to try it out…….but they were closed……..pity.

Lodge Tavern (5/5)

• RR49+X72, Ghana

Here for some live music and cold beers.

Didn’t disappoint, music was good, staff very friendly, night was good.

Labadi Beach Hotel (1/4)

• Number one, La Rd, Accra, Ghana

For one of the most expensive hotels in Accra, a Saturday night here was boring and the food was diabolical.

Tried the IPA and the German style Hefeweizen, both pretty average, and the food we ordered well just look at the photos……….small portions for 4 people…….and not great to eat either.

No music for guests either or anything of interest to keep us entertained here.

Really surprised……

Shisha Lounge (4/5)

• Adjoate St, Accra, Ghana

It definitely is an interesting place, teeming with women looking to pull a foreigner, and the place has a good energy to it at night.

DJ was funny, played some good tunes, but equally played some awful ones too, plus kept using the blaster every fucking ten minutes, clown.

Staff very friendly.

Not a bad joint for a cheap night out.

ACCOMODATION 

Lancaster Accra (5/5)

• Liberation Road, Accra, Ghana

Was here twice during my stay in Accra, once for an all you can eat Sunday buffet and the other time was for spending my last night in Ghana in the hotel proper.

The food on offer on both occasions was excellent, well presented, delicious and filling. Hats off to the Chefs. I had the some traditional Ghanaian dishes for the buffet, and tried an all day British style breakfast which went down very well with a nice cup of tea.

I enjoyed my last night in The Golden Tulip, with live music, over a few beers and cocktails, in good company it was great.

The hotel has a nice pool, with bar, and also a well served and equipped restaurant. The room I stayed in was nice and clean, spacious enough, and the bed was very comfy for the nights sleep.

I also managed to get my hair cut in the hotel as well as they also offer that service, which is exactly what I was looking for…..

Staff friendly, hotel has everything you would expect a top class hotel to have, food and drinks served quickly, efficiently and all tasting good. I must also say I found the price very affordable considering the range of services available within the hotel and for what you pay for, a good price. Overall, I enjoyed my times in the Golden Tulip.

Best Western Plus Accra Beach Hotel (3/5)

• Dtd, 51 Beach Dr, Accra, Ghana

Spent 3 nights and 4 days here. My first experience of Ghanaian hospitality.

Overall the hotel was fine, service was always quick and efficient and with a smile, the room was clean and the bed was comfortable. The food from the menu was good, big portions, and the beers nice and cool. The breakfast was OK, not too bad, and staff willing to accommodate.

The hotel is located next to the beach and at night it was cool to have a beer looking out to the sea.

The only issues really I have is the price of the hotel. It charges 4 star prices for 3 star services. It is a 3 star hotel as it doesn’t offer a huge menu or has a fully functional bar, and not a whole lot going on…..

Other small gripes….i had to ask staff to clean my sheets after 2 days…… and the taxi man offered to us from the hotel cheated us out of 100 cedis for bringing us into town, and boy was he embarrassed about it too, for a trip that should cost only about 30 cedis. ha.

Not a whole lot happening in the hotel, atmosphere was a bit dead, and it is what is it…….just OK.

Rooms: 4

Service: 4

Location: 4

 

Bojo Beach Resort (3/5)

• Bortianor, Ghana

Bit of a mixed bag.

On entry, the road leading to the hotel and beach resort wasn’t the best, first impressions and all that. Hotel lobby was ok. Front of house staff were very pleasant and were helpful. As I was very early my room was not quite ready but they worked hard to get it ready for me in time.

But I was here for the beach and wanted an early start, so got ready and headed to the beach…….. a fast walk around the hotel to where there is a quick boat ride across the river to the beach. The journey takes little more than 5 minutes, if that. I was happy, as I had most of the beach to myself, very few tourists knocking about at around 10 in the morning.

Went for a nice walk along the beach, and for a quick dip into the water as well. All very peaceful and relaxing, bliss on a hot morning. Was a little thirsty and wanted to work on my tan, so got a few beers and ciders and relaxed on the sun lounger, some young lads help me set it up. Proceeded to spend a few hours just chillin under the sun with my drinks.

Hungry work so wanted some snacks, I went to the bar/restaurant area, and unfortunately there wasn’t a whole lot on offer, really just some kebab meats on skewers. Ordered a few, which were expensive, very expensive, and tasted awful, full of fat. Added to that the service in the little bar/restaurant was diabolical, I was charged twice for an order of drinks, which I got some of it refunded, and the rest, the bar man said was for the young lads who helped me set up the sun lounger, despite me tipping them already, a bit strange, not that it mattered as it was small money.

But overall the staff were disinterested in their customers, preferring to sit around and chit chat, and I saw quite a few people make complaints about the service and the state of the food. I think the trouble here was that the staff were all very young and not very motivated, also the bar managers were just as lazy and useless. A very hopeless sight to see.

After a while I returned to the “mainland” and noticed that there was a small bar to the side of where the boats were docked…….funny as it was very easy to pass by without noticing due to the lack of any signage stating it was a bar. Was pretty empty, but the bar lady (Genevieve, as far as I can remember, French name anyway!) was very friendly and professional. Me thinks this girl could and should be sent over to the beach bar to shake things up…….

Anyway after a few nice drinks in the bar as the sun went down, and after meeting a few nice people, it was time to hit the sack……..

Room was decent, and bed was very comfortable…no complaints there.

The hotel restaurant looked dirty and didn’t look like a place that served good food. I could be wrong but impressions make a difference and I just didn’t feel like trying it out. I skipped my breakfast the next morning.

Overall the hotel and resort were a bit of hit and mix. Good value and hotel was fine, the beach was great, but service and a lack of decent food was a downer…….

The overall place is a bit run down and considering its location you would imagine they would put more of an effort into it all. A three star hotel and resort that could easily hit a 4 or even a 5 if they made some effort…… oh also to add, toilets on the beach were a total joke, filthy and miles away from anywhere.

 

AND PLACES TO SEE

Jamestown Light House (3/5)

• 600 Bruce Rd, Accra, Ghana

Bit of a dump to be honest.

This is an amenity that is very much underutilized. Cant go up the lighthouse which is a shame and the area is very dirty around it. An actual rubbish tip behind the lighthouse.

It’s a shame as this is an interesting sight to see and the local government should really tidy it up and invest in the area as many tourists come to visit this lighthouse………..what a waste, tut tut.

Was offered an hours tour of the lighthouse and to get the local history but declined as I couldn’t see the point of spending an hour here. 20 minutes max and I was gone.

Mokola Market

• a20 Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, Ghana

Was here twice. Interesting place to visit and see, and is certainly busy on the weekends.

First time round, bought a football shirt that didn’t fit (damn Chinese sizes!) and some cheap sunglasses, and hung out at a bar within the market, which was fun.

Second time round bought some cheap jewelry, which broke afterwards but that is ok as it was cheap.

Ghana’s largest market, is worth a look, but I don’t know if it is good for buying anything really, more to have a gander than anything else.

The market is a little haphazard and not very ordered, so its easy to get lost within it, and I am not sure its possible to see it all………..is good to have a local with you.

Nyonkopa Eco Tours (5/5)

• Amrahia, Ghana

My tour guide was Joseph, who brought me to the exact places I had wanted to see, Osu Castle, The Mekola Market, Jamestown Lighthouse, and Independence square, and to have some authentic food afterwards.

All done with ease, and Joseph was also very knowledgeable about each spot, giving me little tit bits of interesting information about each of the tourist sites we visited.

All in all a very enjoyable few hours, not rushed, and got to see a lot of Accra…recommended tour group.

Positive: Responsiveness, Quality, Professionalism, Value

Nii Obido Tours (5/5)

• Salem Ave, Accra, Ghana

Took a tour with these guys……very informative and good fun, showed me a lot about the real Ghana.

FOOTBALL 

Accra Sports Stadium (5/5)

• 1272 Starlets 91 Rd, Accra, Ghana

My good buddy Joseph managed to blag us our way into the ground, neither of use having the required Nazi covid pass, amazing what a little bit of extra money will do to get one into a venue.

Great Olympics of Accra were at home to Bechem United, the match that would be my first to see on African soil! The stadium is massive, both from the outside and from the inside…..and I didn’t expect a whole lot to attend, as expected roughly about 1500 or less……but I was amazed how much noise that did come from such a small home support. the noise, chanting and drums were going all throughout the game, and creating a good atmosphere ….hats off to the home support for the noise they created .

It was also interesting to see the home support display the same passion, anger and grief as any football fan on any continent……football is a universal language and I love it.

A few supporters took it upon themselves to give the home manager some stick, shouting at him from behind the dugouts…..was funny to see.

I had a few beers at the game but cant say it was set up too well for food and drink. At one stage the chef was sleeping on the floor as I approached for a beer refill!!! I’d say he keeps a clean kitchen! Not!

The game itself was a nil nil draw, but actually it was quite a good game to watch. Great Olympics came out all guns a blazing at the start and it looked like they would score early, but alas they didn’t, and the away team came more into it, they had a winger who was very lively up and down all game………but in the end it petered out for a draw, and perhaps was a fair result as both teams struggled to really make any clear cut chances in the game. But as a spectacle and my first game in Africa i was chuffed, thoroughly enjoyed it and was buzzing for a while after. Love it!

VIDEOS 

Accra, It’s a Blast! (ThisDrinkingLife Travel Guide)

Daso -Meine (Accra Version)

Afro Beat down at 233 Club Accra

Rhythms of Ghana

Lockdown on the Beach 2021

Dancing Clown

If You Want to Perform #shorts

Use Facebook to Comment on this Post

Richkat Justout

www.instagram.com/richkatcraftbrewing

Brewed by Richkat Craft Brewing
Style: Oatmeal Stout  
Shenzhen, China

Just shortly after September 2001, the world was in a strange place, as what had happened in Lower Manhattan, New York shook up the planet and everyone was on edge. In my case, I had just set foot in China to take up a teaching position in a city (Taiyuan) I had never heard before, and in a country I had very little knowledge of. To say it was daunting for me, is an understatement, yet in the same breath it was slightly exciting! China at that time was just setting off on a developmental story that by the end of the decade would transform the world. As for myself, I ended up staying in China for over five years and developed a keen interest in the Middle Kingdom.

In the early noughties craft beer was not really a thing, not just in China but anywhere really. I got used to drinking Tsingtao or Harbin Píjiǔ (“beer”), the main fare in those days, and to be fair pretty decent brands too. The Chinese could drink; I saw that myself whilst living in Harbin – a city which has one of the highest average per capita beer consumptions in the world – and the Chinese bar culture, with their KTVs and easy access to good food, was and is always good fun. The ground was there for a beer revolution.

So returning to China over 20 and a bit years later I can say the country has gone through a massive change – and all for the best – more modern infrastructure, better transport facilities and networks, more modern conveniences, and a cleaner and greener environment in many of the cities, and, I am happy to say, also a new appreciation for the finer things in life – yes, that means good high quality beer! 

And so the story begins 

In the year of 2017, Richkat Craft Brewing, a craft beer maker, was founded in the vibrant and oh so massive city of Shenzhen. This city in southern China is, of course, that modern metropolis of 17 and a half million people that is just a stones throw from Hong Kong. 

From here Richkat have established a strong presence in mainland China with over 180 locations nationwide and also have just tapped (literally!) into the large Hong Kong market with five, and soon to be six, bars dotted on the small crowded region. Not bad work at all for a beer brand that is still very much in its infancy. 

What they offer is award-winning, independently produced beers, available in both draft and freshly canned options, and in an extensive network of cool and hip taprooms. The beers are unfiltered and undiluted to retain active yeast delivering the genuine freshness and complexity of artisan brewing, and they have won multiple international awards, including at the World Beer Awards, the Australian International Beer Awards and the Kong International Beer Awards, cementing RICHKAT’s reputation as a leading craft beer producer not just in Asia but also in the world. 

So whats the back story to this exciting new brewery? Well it all started when a software developer by the name of Zhao Yong who, while enjoying the local beer scene in Shenzhen, came up with the idea of opening his own craft beer joint. A lover of craft beers, Zhao Yong wanted to have something different to the expensive prices that were on offer at the time. He saught to provide good quality brews but also at prices that wouldn’t hurt the pocket of the local beer enthusiast. Step forward Gavin Hemple, British born and a regular at a bar owned by Zhao Yong, and someone who also just happened to have completed a brewing internship at Norway’s exciting Nøgne Ø craft brewery and had even studied brewing and the business of brewing at the famous American home of craft brewing, the Siebel Institute of Technology.

A match made in heaven perhaps? Well in 2017 the pair teamed up to create a Chinese craft beer brand that they would name RichKat – the idea behind the name coming from the pleasure one gets from a cat who welcomes its owner home and gives off a good mood – so similar to a Richkat bar then – relax, destress and enjoy in a warm and pleasing environment, while drinking some delicious and tasty craft beers! Rich of course signifying wealth and prosperity – important traits in China. Together we get Richkat and with it the logo of Richkat, or Mao Yuanwai (貓員外) as the locals call it, you can find the features of a cat – hence the name. I don’t know how much of that is true, but it certainly is a good yarn! 

With this experience and a good taste in beers we see that Richkat brew a wide variety of top quality brews and also exciting and out there beers – the typical IPA’s for sure but also Belgian inspired Wit’s, German Kölsch’s (Hawthorn), Gose’s (yes even them), and Chocolate Imperial Stouts – amongst a raft of other exciting beers. Respect goes to the brewery for allowing Gavin and his team to be so creative this side of Asia – introducing European and American styles to the Asian drinker, and knocking it out the door too. Take a bow Richkat! 

And now we move to the present where we have an exciting new brewery going places. Winning awards and brewing quality and quite frankly bloody good craft beers – expanding all the time – in both mainland China and in Hong Kong. The world – WATCH THIS SPACE!

Review: 330ml can of Richkat Justout: 4.5% vol.

Coming from Ireland it was natural for me to be instantly drawn to their Stout. How would it taste and compare to what we drink back in the old country – Ireland – the Guinness, the Murphys, The Beamish and all the new stouts on offer in the land of the Stouts. The Chinese are innovative and creative for sure but can a Chinese stout rise to the occasion? 

Richkat Justout is what I tried. It is an oatmeal stout brewed by Richkat Craft Brewing and can be found on tap in places in certain cities in mainland China, and in Hong Kong.

I really liked the small lovely can it comes in – all black with white lettering – very distinctive in its small dinky little can. On the can it is clear that this is a “Nitro Stout” – which is to give it a creamy feel – putting all stout lovers at ease . Also on the can there are instructions on how to drink it – for the uninitiated  – heh not everyone is a native of Ireland! 

As per instructions, and truth be told what you should do for any proper porter or stout, serve it cold from the fridge. But the Richkat can is specially designed with oxygen – free sealing, which seems to make it even that little extra cold, which is very noticeable.

And back to the instructions:

1- shake for a few seconds then open, allowing the stout to work its magic and surge nice, keeping the flavour

2- pour at an angle to get the look of a decent stout

3- let it settle and then drink, preferably with a large gulp. Or at least that’s what I guess it is as its written in Chinese!

We can also see from the can that this brew won at the prestigious World Beer Awards in 2025 – Getting a silver for China – in the stout/porter category – which is pretty impressive I have to say. Well done to all involved. 

(Stop press! JUSTOUT has won an other award in November – Brussels beer challenge 2025 Silver Medal!) 

On pour – nice pitch black colour, with a good lively creamy white and tanned caramel coloured head. The lacing (or “the shtick”) is good, initially at least, but does die off a little later.

For the second pint – pour was nice, again pitch black, good tanned head, very decent – does die a little, but that’s ok as its the right colour, and looks all good.

The aroma is one of a typical rich porter smell, and, as anticipated, roasted malts, dark chocolate, caramel and coffee on the nose. Lovely and reassuring  – its nicely setting things up for the taste…

Onto the taste – initial lovely deep creamy mouthfuls, very satisfying and as you’d expect from any decent stout. Bubbly and alive on the tongue.  

Its light, fresh and smooth enough too, not overly aggressive or bitter, so easy to drink and saviour. But at the back end, you get the distinct stout flavours, the coffee is present with the roasted dark malts and the chocolate tastes are there as well. 

A slow burner – over a long evening I liked it. It maintains its taste throughout and was very sessionable. It also has a full bodied taste – you get a lot of bang for your buck here – which is why I like Stouts. I like to think its part of my healthy diet! (all that iron!) 

People will ask – how does it compare to a Guinness? I don’t think its fair to make a real comparison to be honest. The gang in St James Gate have been brewing for over 250 years while Richkat are still very much in its infancy. Guinness is wholesome, a fully bodied meal of a drink, but also much more bitter and strong with the tastes – Id say Juststout is like a Chinese brother, similar but on a much lighter scale. Definitely one to introduce to someone who is perhaps skeptical about trying stouts, let them try this as a good introduction to the style.

Overall an extremely good effort from a Chinese brewery – well crafted, tasty and very enjoyable – not often you can say that an Asian brewery could get a good stout going but the gang at Richkat have done it, well done, and that’s coming from an Irish man! I definitely will be searching out this stout more often when the opportunity should arise. Strongly recommended!  

Over twenty years later I see the future is bright for Chinese beers; “Slainte”, I will drink to that! 

Use Facebook to Comment on this Post