Ulaanbaatar City Guide: Where to Eat, Drink & Experience the Soul of Modern Mongolia
Ulaanbaatar – the beating heart of Mongolia, a city I’ve fallen for after 4 visits. There’s something raw and magnetic about UB that just clicks. The people here are proper down-to-earth, tough as old boots from generations of wrestling with the elements, yet they’ve got this gentle, open soul underneath. You can feel their deep, almost spiritual connection to the land and the vast steppes – it echoes their warrior past in every handshake and quiet smile. And yeah, you can absolutely see it in their faces and bearing: these are the descendants of Genghis Khan, the man of Mongolia, the unifier who forged an empire from the saddle. That proud, resilient spirit is still very much alive.
At the same time, the city is transforming fast – money is pouring in from oil, gas, copper, coal, gold and all those rich minerals. Skyscrapers are shooting up, international brands are filling the shops, and there’s a real buzz and excitement about the future. It’s a young, lively capital where ancient nomadic roots meet modern energy, and the vibe is electric. You’ve got great cafes slinging serious coffee, modern restaurants blending Mongolian classics with international twists, hip bars pouring craft beers and creative cocktails, and an overall feeling that something big is happening here. It’s not polished like some Asian capitals, but that’s part of the charm – raw, real, and full of life.
Mongolian food is hearty, built for the steppe – think tender mutton, beef, buuz (steamed dumplings), khuushuur (fried pastries), tsuivan (stir-fried noodles), and salty milk tea (suutei tsai). But the scene has evolved: plenty of fusion spots now mix local ingredients with global techniques.
Cafes and bars are booming: Morning Street has become a trendy strip with early-opening spots, international options (Korean, Indian, etc.), and an easy outdoor vibe when the weather cooperates. Portions are usually generous, and the quality has stepped up with the economic boom.
Where to Drink & Nightlife
This is where UB really shines these days. The drinking and nightlife scene has leveled up dramatically in the last few years – from quiet to vibrant without losing its soul. Locals dress smart-casual and love a night out, especially in summer. Beer is big (local favorites like Chinggis, Golden Gobi, Sengur, or GEM), but craft options, cocktails, and live music are thriving.
One quirky UB hallmark: the surprising number of Irish pubs. They popped up years ago – some say from expats returning after stints in Ireland, others joke it was just the era when “Irish bar” became shorthand for any proper pub. Whatever the origin, they’ve stuck around and become local institutions. They’re great for a pint, pub grub, and that sociable atmosphere where conversations flow easily. I previously wrote about that here > Mongolia and Irish bars!
You’ll find everything from dive-y late spots to rooftop lounges with skyline views, smoky theatrical cocktails, and clubs for dancing if that’s your thing. The energy is sociable – Mongolians are welcoming, and a shared drink often leads to good chats about horses, the land, or the future.
And honestly? Some of my best nights in UB have ended with making lifelong friends – whether over a Chinggis beer in an Irish pub or a negroni in a sleek new spot. The people here have a way of pulling you in.
Beyond Food & Drink
Soak in the contrasts: Sukhbaatar Square for the central pulse, Choijin Lama Temple Museum or Gandan Monastery for Buddhist tranquility amid the urban sprawl, the Bogd Khaan Palace for a taste of royal history, or the National Museum of Mongolia for Genghis-era context and nomadic artifacts.
The city edges give way quickly to hills with views over the ger districts – a reminder that the steppe is never far. In summer, there’s a festival energy; in winter, the cold adds its own stark beauty.
UB can be dusty or bitterly cold depending on the season – pack layers and respect the elements (that warrior resilience isn’t just talk). Transport is improving but still a mix of taxis, rideshares, and walking the lively streets. ATMs and cards are more widespread now with the money flowing in, but have some cash handy. Haircuts, dry cleaning, and everyday services are straightforward and affordable.
Overall, Ulaanbaatar captures that perfect tension: deep-rooted, land-connected souls driving a city that’s charging toward a modern, mineral-fueled future. It’s exciting, genuine, and full of that quiet pride. If you love a place with heart, history in the faces, and a buzz in the air, UB delivers.
The next round’s on me – Chinggis beer, a well-made negroni, or a pint in one of those delightfully unexpected Irish pubs? Either way, you’ll feel the steppe calling even in the middle of the skyscrapers.
NIGHT TIME ACTIVITIES
Grand Khaan Irish Pub (3/5)
- Seoul St, SBD – 1 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 14251, Mongolia
The biggest Irish bar was The Grand Khaan Irish Pub, a good place for food, with great service, and where all the hot shots of the city hang out.
A bit expensive and really doesn’t offer much in terms of decent entertainment, but not that bad for a quite drink and a chat in the day time.
Dublin Irish pub (4/5)
- WW74+GFP Seoul St, SBD – 4 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
My favourite Irish bar was The Dublin Irish Pub, which for an “Oirish bar” wasn’t too bad. They say they were the first Irish bar in the city, but truth be told the city still has to have a real authentic Irish pub.
I was a regular customer there and managed to get a tab running, which is always a bonus.
Had decent food, good music on the jukebox, had a chilled out atmosphere and sometimes on special nights an impromptu music session would get going.
The only negative was the bar staff had terrible English and were a bit dim.
Don’t get me wrong – it’s not perfect. The food can still feel painfully plain if you’re not into sticky rice and mystery herbs. The heat will melt your face off on bad days. And the tuk-tuk drivers still haven’t nailed the concept of “actually knowing where anything is.” ATMs are well dodgy too — some work, some don’t, some might take your card, and others are painfully slow. Be careful with them. But after three trips, Vientiane feels like a proper breath of fresh (humid) air compared to the more intense pace you find in other parts of the region. Wide streets, a relaxed rhythm that actually matches the Lao pace, and a capital city that doesn’t make you want to bolt for the airport after three days. Pleasantly surprised doesn’t even cover it anymore — I’m properly sold.
Lao Beer is easily the best lager in Asia in my opinion — the classic lager is top notch, cold and crisp, and goes down dangerously easy. But they also do a very good IPA and a decent stout that are definitely worth trying if you see them. You’ll spot Beer Lao (and its various versions) everywhere in Vientiane, and you’ll be thankful every time.
The night markets along the Mekong are still brilliant for cold beers, grilled meats, and proper people-watching as the sun sets over the river.
The bed was very comfy and smelt lovely. The en-suite bathroom and shower were good, the shower hot immediately when turned on….
Extremely friendly lady to welcome me to the hotel, nice and chatty and very kind……
Came here three times for early morning breakfast.
Don’t know about the guesthouse, but the food was alright.
Just in for a quick beer and a rest. Service was friendly.
Texas Chicken Thatluang (4/5)
Joma Bakery Cafe That Luang (4/5)
Lavender Café (5/5) 
STAY AWAY
Amazing anger shown by a very unhappy and sad woman…….. and as for the man who took or orders……I wonder where he disappeared to!
The Office Bar & Tapas (5/5)
Late night dive, rough and ready and just how I like it Arrived here knowing full well it was a late night bar……and on a 3 day lash it was exactly what I wanted……
Wat Chan (4/5)
Wat That Khao (4/5)
Very nice place to visit…….very quiet and relaxing, lots of shade under the midday sun to take a nice break and take it all in.
The statue of venerated past King of the nation of Laos.
Qutub Minar — this tall historical tower and the grounds around it were actually well-maintained and impressive as a UNESCO site
Passed by and looked in, as it seemed interesting, I decided to try it out. Décor was very colorful and cool looking, very stylish and hip even for an old fogy like myself. Nice waitress showed me to my seat and gave me two massive menus, were like books…..one for food, one for drinks….Jesus h Christ, the size of them! ha
I don’t normally leave any food on the plate, but I was stuffed, couldn’t finish the good sized portions.
Recommended by my taxi driver, ventured in, hungry after a long day of sightseeing.
Ordered some ice cream for dessert, as I know Indian ice cream can be pretty good, but alas this wasn’t the case here…..pretty bland and no flavour. But I will let that pass as the main dishes were excellent.
Luckily the Chinese looking lad helped…….noticed the hungry foreigner not eating or drinking…. and gave me a menu, and bang I was ready to order.
Got a taxi there, and invited the taxi man in for some food as well. A nice gesture for sure, but it was funny to see the reactions of the staff to my new friend……very cold, and they just kept on staring at us. I felt it was a bit rude. Maybe I was imagining it, but it did take the shine off the food, which was very good. I wonder was it a caste thing?
Tried the fire and the ice Pann …load of rubbish……tasteless and just for the camera opportunity.
Hungry as hadn’t eaten all day, ordered two cheese sandwiches and some orange juice.
First sit down in Delhi
Saturday night, dull as dish water.
Wasn’t allowed in as the lads at door said it was for couples only… me thinks that was a load of rubbish…… I mean women are scarce enough in this city as it is!!!
Looking at the beer menu I think its a bit of an exaggeration to be called Lords of the Drinks, such was the scarcity of decent beers available…….went for Erdinger….not my favourite, but beggars cant be choosers.
Nice place to sit down before you get your plane, plenty of space and nice atmosphere.
Raj Ghat is a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi in Delhi, India. It is where some of his ashes are to be found and marks the exact location where Gandhi was consigned to flames and his last rites were performed, or so I read.
Didn’t learn anything or seen anything amazing.
Arriving……..a complete nightmare, two and a half hours getting out of the place…….due to having to take another silly covid test (in case I somehow got it off the pilot or someone else on the plane), then people having to look at my passport again and again and again……. after a long flight the last thing one wants is to be stuck in long queues.
JW7G+9X8, Accra, Ghana
Our friend was very eager to introduce us to Thai food as he had experienced it in the States, and it is one of his favourite styles of food. Us other three had never tried Thai and were so eager to test these dishes…
Rated as one of the top restaurants in Accra, not having Indian in such a long time (the good old London days), and wanting to introduce my Ghanaian friends to these dishes……we arrived at Tandoor, in excited anticipation.
The dishes got a mixed response, some we liked (biryani, kebab roll), others not so much. I personally thought the food was pretty good, decent enough standard for an Indian restaurant., but I don’t think my Ghanaian friends are just ready for this kind of food. They were not won over. We had the usual beers and drinks and then before we left ordered a variety of ice creams, all of which went down much better than the hot food previously…….
But we both went for chicken, I for the fried and my friend for the grilled.
As for the food, as was still new to Ghanaian food I just ordered the red red (beans stew) twice over….. It was ok and I enjoyed it.
Nice place, and was busy for the time of day that was in it, late afternoon on the weekend……good atmosphere too.
First impressions was the place was quite small, but there was a very steady stream of customers in and out buying ice cream…..which was very interesting to see.
Service was good too, friendly and efficient…..we were served by a young lad who told us it was his first job since leaving school……it was good to see him hitting the ground running……as he came over to check on us regularly, which was very good.
Went here for some traditional Ghanaian dishes, nice and cozy place, quiet in the middle of the day.
JRFV+2W9 Dede PLaza, Spintex Rd, Accra, Ghana
The food was good and we enjoyed eating our lunch here. Afters, we went to the bar proper, Joes Bar, right beside the Lucida, and had a drink and ordered some ice creams, which was also quite good and a reasonable price.
Living Room, La-Bawaleshi Rd, Accra, Ghana
Drinks are cool, and the atmosphere is always relaxed.
Serenity Beach Resort Ghana (5/5)
Came here as they had advertised they had Murphy’s and Guinness on tap……..which I should have guessed was a load of codswallop, as they didn’t, in fact the bar staff hadn’t the foggiest what I was asking for them……..that is false advertising right there!
Arriving a little early we were told that there was no one in the club yet, although with our own eyes we could clearly see that was a load of old rubbish……..then he made up some excuse about our clothes and footwear, and then finally relented to let us in if we gave him 200 cedis…ha ha, what a plonker…..
Was here for a Saturday night, and after a struggle to get in as the security and door men were very strict, we did eventually take our seats at the front. Door men were fussy, and it felt like it was a privilege just to be allowed in the door……..we also had to pay for the live music, something that is very unusual in a city teeming with good live music….
For the wild part of Accra’s nightlife, ha ha, good for watching the interesting and the mad walk by, while listening to some music from the Dj and cool drinks to boot.
All in all a good night, except when the bill came……about 1900 cedis, which on reflection we all decided was obscene.
Friendly owner, welcomed us with a nice welcome.
Here for some live music and cold beers.
Number one, La Rd, Accra, Ghana
The food on offer on both occasions was excellent, well presented, delicious and filling. Hats off to the Chefs. I had the some traditional Ghanaian dishes for the buffet, and tried an all day British style breakfast which went down very well with a nice cup of tea.
Dtd, 51 Beach Dr, Accra, Ghana
The only issues really I have is the price of the hotel. It charges 4 star prices for 3 star services. It is a 3 star hotel as it doesn’t offer a huge menu or has a fully functional bar, and not a whole lot going on….. 
On entry, the road leading to the hotel and beach resort wasn’t the best, first impressions and all that. Hotel lobby was ok. Front of house staff were very pleasant and were helpful. As I was very early my room was not quite ready but they worked hard to get it ready for me in time.
Hungry work so wanted some snacks, I went to the bar/restaurant area, and unfortunately there wasn’t a whole lot on offer, really just some kebab meats on skewers. Ordered a few, which were expensive, very expensive, and tasted awful, full of fat. Added to that the service in the little bar/restaurant was diabolical, I was charged twice for an order of drinks, which I got some of it refunded, and the rest, the bar man said was for the young lads who helped me set up the sun lounger, despite me tipping them already, a bit strange, not that it mattered as it was small money.
After a while I returned to the “mainland” and noticed that there was a small bar to the side of where the boats were docked…….funny as it was very easy to pass by without noticing due to the lack of any signage stating it was a bar. Was pretty empty, but the bar lady (Genevieve, as far as I can remember, French name anyway!) was very friendly and professional. Me thinks this girl could and should be sent over to the beach bar to shake things up…….
Second time round bought some cheap jewelry, which broke afterwards but that is ok as it was cheap.
My tour guide was Joseph, who brought me to the exact places I had wanted to see, Osu Castle, The Mekola Market, Jamestown Lighthouse, and Independence square, and to have some authentic food afterwards.
The game itself was a nil nil draw, but actually it was quite a good game to watch. Great Olympics came out all guns a blazing at the start and it looked like they would score early, but alas they didn’t, and the away team came more into it, they had a winger who was very lively up and down all game………but in the end it petered out for a draw, and perhaps was a fair result as both teams struggled to really make any clear cut chances in the game. But as a spectacle and my first game in Africa i was chuffed, thoroughly enjoyed it and was buzzing for a while after. Love it!
Just shortly after September 2001, the world was in a strange place, as what had happened in Lower Manhattan, New York shook up the planet and everyone was on edge. In my case, I had just set foot in China to take up a teaching position in a city (Taiyuan) I had never heard before, and in a country I had very little knowledge of. To say it was daunting for me, is an understatement, yet in the same breath it was slightly exciting! China at that time was just setting off on a developmental story that by the end of the decade would transform the world. As for myself, I ended up staying in China for over five years and developed a keen interest in the Middle Kingdom.
So returning to China over 20 and a bit years later I can say the country has gone through a massive change – and all for the best – more modern infrastructure, better transport facilities and networks, more modern conveniences, and a cleaner and greener environment in many of the cities, and, I am happy to say, also a new appreciation for the finer things in life – yes, that means good high quality beer! 
From here Richkat have established a strong presence in mainland China with over 180 locations nationwide and also have just tapped (literally!) into the large Hong Kong market with five, and soon to be six, bars dotted on the small crowded region. Not bad work at all for a beer brand that is still very much in its infancy. 
So whats the back story to this exciting new brewery? Well it all started when a software developer by the name of Zhao Yong who, while enjoying the local beer scene in Shenzhen, came up with the idea of opening his own craft beer joint. A lover of craft beers, Zhao Yong wanted to have something different to the expensive prices that were on offer at the time. He saught to provide good quality brews but also at prices that wouldn’t hurt the pocket of the local beer enthusiast. Step forward Gavin Hemple, British born and a regular at a bar owned by Zhao Yong, and someone who also just happened to have completed a brewing internship at Norway’s exciting Nøgne Ø craft brewery and had even studied brewing and the business of brewing at the famous American home of craft brewing, the Siebel Institute of Technology.
A match made in heaven perhaps? Well in 2017 the pair teamed up to create a Chinese craft beer brand that they would name RichKat – the idea behind the name coming from the pleasure one gets from a cat who welcomes its owner home and gives off a good mood – so similar to a Richkat bar then – relax, destress and enjoy in a warm and pleasing environment, while drinking some delicious and tasty craft beers! Rich of course signifying wealth and prosperity – important traits in China. Together we get Richkat and with it the logo of Richkat, or Mao Yuanwai (貓員外) as the locals call it, you can find the features of a cat – hence the name. I don’t know how much of that is true, but it certainly is a good yarn! 
With this experience and a good taste in beers we see that Richkat brew a wide variety of top quality brews and also exciting and out there beers – the typical IPA’s for sure but also Belgian inspired Wit’s, German Kölsch’s (Hawthorn), Gose’s (yes even them), and Chocolate Imperial Stouts – amongst a raft of other exciting beers. Respect goes to the brewery for allowing Gavin and his team to be so creative this side of Asia – introducing European and American styles to the Asian drinker, and knocking it out the door too. Take a bow Richkat! 
I really liked the small lovely can it comes in – all black with white lettering – very distinctive in its small dinky little can. On the can it is clear that this is a “Nitro Stout” – which is to give it a creamy feel – putting all stout lovers at ease . Also on the can there are instructions on how to drink it – for the uninitiated – heh not everyone is a native of Ireland! 
1- shake for a few seconds then open, allowing the stout to work its magic and surge nice, keeping the flavour
For the second pint – pour was nice, again pitch black, good tanned head, very decent – does die a little, but that’s ok as its the right colour, and looks all good.
Its light, fresh and smooth enough too, not overly aggressive or bitter, so easy to drink and saviour. But at the back end, you get the distinct stout flavours, the coffee is present with the roasted dark malts and the chocolate tastes are there as well. 
Over twenty years later I see the future is bright for Chinese beers; “Slainte”, I will drink to that!