My Time in Warsaw: Beers, Football, Pierogi & a Proper Capital
I spent a few months in Warsaw in early 2022 (roughly January to the start of April). Ireland was doing my head in again and I needed a change. Warsaw turned out to be a great shout — a proper European capital that’s clean, cultured, cheap, and still feels alive without the chaos or pretension of some bigger cities. It has a beautiful rebuilt Old Town, plenty of modern skyscrapers, strong football culture, solid museums, and enough good bars and hearty food to keep a beer-and-football man happy.
The people are friendly once you get over the tough Eastern European exterior. Excellent drinking dens, and affordable too. When I was there the city was pretty quiet at night — now it might have changed a bit with the influx of thousands of Ukrainian refugees after the war, but I think it should still be largely the same. Safe at night, even the parks, and even for women — I saw plenty walking on their own after dark. Clean and tidy city, bursting with civic pride.
Warsaw is an interesting mix and collision of the old and the new: progressivism versus Catholicism, modernity versus old architecture, new history versus old history. Because of the Warsaw Uprising and the Warsaw Ghetto it’s a city with a living history steeped within the walls. Quiet enough at night that you can walk around without the usual yahoos, yet there’s craic to be found when you want it. One of the best cities in Europe, I think. Strongly recommended for a few weeks or a long weekend.
Places worth your time
Warsaw has real history and proper culture without forcing it.
The Palace of Culture and Science still dominates the skyline (Stalin’s “gift”) and looks elegant among the newer towers. Queue for the lift, take in the views — worth it even if the wait is half an hour each way.
The Polish National Museum is excellent value (I got in for a nominal 1 złoty on a Sunday) — three floors of art and Polish history that easily fill a couple of hours. Nearby, the Polish Army Museum has outdoor tanks, planes and weaponry free to wander, plus a solid indoor collection covering the Uprising, WW2, and older campaigns (English descriptions available). The Museum of the World of Illusion is a quirky, fun hour of optical tricks.
All Saints Church has a statue of John Paul II and a peaceful spot in the centre (though it was under renovation when I visited).
Football at Polonia Warsaw Stadium or the Polish Army Stadium (Legia) delivers proper atmosphere, pyro, hospitality and cheap tickets — bring photo ID.
Food
Polish food is honest, filling and good value.
Pierogi is the star — in fact you could say I am addicted to it. Try Zapiecek (several branches; the one I hit near the Old Town was cosy, English menu, excellent dumplings including Grandma’s portion and meaty versions, plus roast beef) or GOŚCINIEC Polskie Pierogi on Krakowskie Przedmieście (stuffed cabbage was meh for me, but the Ruskie pierogi and beer were lovely, and the bill stayed low).
Indian Taste does a solid “menu for two” with tikka, butter chicken, samosas and Goa beer.
Late-night kebabs at Café Baguette hit the spot after a few beers.
Simple pizza and beer at Da Gusto after landing worked fine.
Nightlife & pubs
Warsaw does a good mix of proper pubs and more polished spots.
Irish Pub Miodowa was my favourite — not particularly Irish in staff or connection, but brilliant craic, friendly enough staff, decent pints (including Guinness), wild mix of ages, live music/DJ on weekends, and the kind of place you end up repeatedly.
Beer Station PUB Centrum has great vibes and chatty staff. Podwale Bar and Books is small, cosy and gentleman’s-club quiet — perfect for conversation. Spring sports bar is rough-and-ready with good banter for a pre-match Legia pint.
British Bulldog is fine for a few beers and cod & chips (when the food is on), though the early close and occasional surly service annoy.
INDEKS Bar & Bistro is a solid underground option.
Avoid Dom Whisky (rude, ignorant staff who ignore you), and Emerald Irish Pub (dead and uninterested).
Overall
Overall, Warsaw delivered exactly what I needed: solid drinking, football days out, proper food (especially those addictive pierogi), and enough culture to feel like I’d seen the place properly. Clean, safe, full of civic pride, with a living history and that classic mix of old and new. Friendly once you get past the exterior, excellent value, and it gets under your skin in a good way. One of the best cities in Europe. Go for the pierogi, the Miodowa craic, a Legia or Polonia match, and the views from the Palace.

NIGHT TIME ACTIVITIES
Irish Pub Miodowa (5/5)
- Miodowa 3, 00-080 Warszawa, Poland
As a regular beer hound who can sniff out a good bar or pub for miles around, I found this Irish bar in Warsaw to be one of the best in the city, nah, even further afield…….. to be honest it was one of the best pubs I had drank in for a long, long time.
Was here a good couple of times during my few months staying in Warsaw. It seemed to be the place I always ended up! And although I did eventually get booted out one night for been a bit naughty, I still love the place……
The staff are friendly, most of them anyway, the patrons are a wild mix of youth and the very old, the pints are decent, and the craic is always on the go. It is an “Irish” bar but has no Irish staff, or real connection to the old country, apart from the identikit Irish stuff one can find in any Orish pub anywhere in the world…….and of course the Guinness on tap. I would say what they lack here they more than make up in unfiltered “craic” and fun…….. might not be Irish but they certainly party like the Irish here.
Has live music, and a DJ banging out classics during the weekends…… both well worth hanging around for……going on well into the night….and with most of the punters hitting the dance floor, young and old together having a good time…..
This place is a must for anyone wanting to spend a good rocking night in Warsaw…….
Strongly Recommended
Atmosphere: 5
Cafe Rock’n’Roll Grill Bar (2/5)
Mokotowska 4/pok. 112, 00-641 Warszawa, Poland
Not enough attractions to keep three thirsty souls entertained enough to stay.
Quiet for a Saturday night……
Atmosphere: 1
Spring. sports bar (4/5)
aleja Tomasza Hopfera 11, 00-459 Warszawa, Poland
Good place for a pre match beer in the company of some Legia fans.
Rough and ready bar. Good banter
Easy to get your order in, no fuss.
Service: 4 Atmosphere: 5
British Bulldog Pub (4/5)
- Krucza 51, 00-022 róg, Poland
Ok for a sit down and a few beers. Ventured in and instantly met a few ex pats which was great……..
Good crowd in on a Saturday night, good few locals too that were more than happy to share a few beers with and all……..
Beers were fine, just had regular lagers and all……..maybe one shot.
Bar man needs to lighten up, if he doesn’t want to work in a bar then no one is forcing him……. its the hospitality industry after all, try and smile! Also the fact the bar closes early is a real bummer, especially as its the weekend. Only getting settled then have to drink up and leave. Bit of a joke that.
edit) returned with friend, for a drink and a bite to eat. Ordered some Guinness, which was ok, and cod and chips. service was good, and the food was well tasty……
Food: 5 Service: 1 Atmosphere: 3
Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar (1/5)
- Nowy Świat 32, 00-373 Warszawa, Poland
Worst service encountered in Warsaw, very rude and ignorant staff.
Went in with friend, thought it might be fun to try something different from the usual pints of beer we have. Sat down at bar. No service……………….so asked for a drinks menu……not like we know all the cocktails and mixes off the top of our head….but no menu was forthcoming and when my friend asked for the menu he was scoffed at by the bar man.
Three young men all huddled together, ignoring two thirsty travelers…….. I wonder what could be so interesting in their little pee brains that they forgot they are in the hospitality industry.
Up we went and left the kip
Irish Pub Molly Malone’s (3/5)
- Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, 00-071 Warszawa, Poland
Here twice on my stay in Warsaw, downstairs in the cozy bar rather than the drinking den upstairs.
Not the worst place in the world, nice and comfy and the bar lady was very friendly, nice and chatty…..working well on her own for most periods of the time.
Guinness was ok, and had an Irish whiskey, but also some Belgian beer which as fine.
Second time around, meeting my Scottish mate, who was very peeved that they were not showing the rugby, deciding day and all – Ireland V Scotland – I didn’t particularity care, and if I am honest, i prefer a bar not to show any egg chasing – but he had a point. You would imagine an “Irish bar” might show Ireland playing in the rugby as opposed to seeing some British football. That is called cultural appropriation…a tad bit annoying.
What was more annoying to me was when we kindly asked the bar man if we could request some tunes on the music box (TV hooked up to the YouTube) We were thinking some good music from Ireland and the UK but no the fat lad much preferred to play his hard metal songs of the 90s – Bit weird, and anti social.
Looking at most of the negative reviews on here though it seems I escaped much of the nonsense.
Anyway not a bad place but You are NOT an Irish bar! OK!!!!
(There is a much, much better Irish bar around the corner!)
Service: 2
INDEKS Bar & Bistro (4/5)
- Krakowskie Przedmieście 24, 00-325 Warszawa, Poland
Not a bad little place, an underground joint, which was busy enough on the Saturday night, the staff friendly, and a good place for a few beers and a chat
Service: 5 Atmosphere: 4
Zamieszanie – cocktail bar (3/5)
- Nowy Świat 6/12, 00-400 Warszawa, Poland
Late night beer, had a nice beer and the chat before going home
Ok place, interesting décor and a decent enough ambiance, but having said that its not the kind of place you’d stay for too long……too open and high chairs are not conducive to relaxing…..
I though the pumps at the front of the bar was for some craft beers, little did I know it was cocktails……the bar lady laughed, like how could I not know…….silly me thinking good cocktails are shaken and sometimes stirred, heh I’m not into lady drinks much, ha ha….anyway.
Service: 1 Atmosphere: 3
Podwale Bar and Books (5/5)
- Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warszawa, Poland
An interesting place, very small and cozy, kind of hidden away with an air of pretense, a well to do place that feels like a gentleman’s club, although somehow I had managed to get through the doors. A place where there is a smart looking fella at the door ready to welcome you in and take your coats, and show you to your seat.
But having said all that, I liked this place. as it is small it gives the drinker a good chance to have a good conversation without silly pop music blaring out or crowds of drunken young men strutting their stuff. I could get used to bars like this!
The bar staff were friendly, the beers and the cocktails we had, were all good, and I would like to return to this place.
Service: 5 Atmosphere: 4

Beer Station PUB Centrum (5/5)
Lwowska 17, 00-660 Warszawa, Poland
Small little pub but with a lot of good vibes, especially the night we were in, with very friendly staff and a good happy atmosphere in the bar.
Bar staff were very chatty and friendly.
Nice vibes, good beer and absolutely loved the positive atmosphere emanating from the place. If I have the chance I would love to return.
Service: 5 Atmosphere: 5

Emerald Irish Pub (1/5)
Al. Jerozolimskie 4, 00-375 Warszawa, Poland
Irish man in Irish bar drinking Irish beer, left bitterly disappointed.
Sunday night, dead, was only customer and no chat with bar man, who was more interested in hiding out the back.
Tut Tut Guinness was just about ok.
Service: 1 Atmosphere: 1
Belgian Elephant Pub (3/5)
- Freta 19, 00-227 Warszawa, Poland
Bit of a novelty in downtown Warsaw, but if you are a lover of Belgian beers and all things sour then this is the place for you.
I am more a stout and cheap lager man myself, so I guess I’m too uncultured for the likes of this place, but still where there is beer then I am usually to be found.
Loving the décor, really made a great effort within the bar, lots of beer memorabilia dotted all around. Brilliant.
Wasn’t a whole lot in for a Saturday night, a bit dead in fact. Or so we had thought when a large group of Belgian ex pats walked in and set themselves at large tables, ready for a night of drinking. Unfortunately this was to be an exclusive event, and other customers were told to leave as the bar was to close.
Tells you all you need to know about this bar in my humble opinion. Buy our expensive beer, and pee off…….but hell maybe cause I’m Irish…lol.
Edit: this happened a few years ago. Something is up with Google’s AI that is making me re-upload old reviews To reply. It did happen, what would I gain from lying, tsk. Your reply proves my point😊
Service: 1 Atmosphere: 3

PLACES TO EAT
Zapiecek (5/5)
Świętojańska 13, 00-288 Warszawa, Poland
Not sure if this is the exact place I was with my Polish friend, as Zapiecek have a few restaurants in and around the city centre.
Was very excited to try the Pierogi, as I know this dish to be very delicious and this place looked the part. Nice and cozy, good crowd in, and waiting staff very welcoming. Love it
Great that the menu comes in English too. I started with some of “Grandma’s portion”, a mix of 9 boiled dumplings, l then moved onto a meaty version…….lovely. I also ordered Roast beef with veg and potatoes…… and to further fatten me up…..I lastly got some dumplings with duck. A lot of dumplings and my Polish friend was amazed how many I had eaten, 18 or something I had eaten (a record for sure!) ha
The dishes were excellent, well presented, good honest food, and delicious. I would say the duck dumplings were not my cup of tea, but you live and learn. All food was washed down by the obligatory cool pint of Tyskie. My friend ordered what looked like a bread football with a meat stew inside it, and she also ordered a dessert afterwards.
A lot of food, and a good hour or two whiled away…….Nice atmosphere good company and great food. And the bill didn’t come to a whole lot either, cant remember exactly what it was but i do know it was a very fair and reasonable price.
Very much recommended if coming to Warsaw to try out a Zapiecek branch in the town.
Food: 5 Service: 5 Atmosphere: 5
Cafe Baguette (5/5)
Krakowskie Przedmieście 69, 00-071 Warszawa, Poland
I was here a few times to get a late night kebab after a night on the town.
Stays open late and has very friendly staff ready to take your order with a smile.
Kebabs are cheap and tasty, and always a great way to top off the night. Perfect.
Food: 5 Service: 5 Atmosphere: 4
Da Gusto (4/5)
- Przemysłowa 31/33, 00-450 Warszawa, Poland
Hungry coming straight from airport, my first sit down in Warsaw, keep it simple, regular pizza with cold beer.
Served by the friendly waitress, pizza was good, beers were fine.
All in all, nice relaxing place with a good atmosphere and, more importantly, decent food.
Food: 4 Service: 5
Mąka i Woda (1/5)
Chmielna 13a, 00-021 Warszawa, Poland
Seems they operate a policy of discrimination.
Me and my friend, both very hungry, sat down at a table but were refused service, and so had to leave.
Maybe its cause I am a foreigner, who knows, but very disappointing!
Food: 1 Service: 1 Atmosphere: 1
GOŚCINIEC Polskie Pierogi (5/5)
- Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, 00-071 Warszawa, Poland
Came in here after a long day of walking around Warsaw sightseeing. Great spot, but very busy and we were very lucky to find a place to sit down, virtually the last two free spaces……otherwise we would have had to wait.
Very friendly staff that brought us a very colourful menu…… Ordered stuffed cabbage with porc and rice in tomato sauce served with potatoes and for dessert (lol) some Pierogi Ruskie, dumplings with cheese and potatoes, all to be washed down with generous quantities of Polish beer.
I was curious and that is why I asked for the stuffed cabbage dish but truth be told I wasn’t a fan. It was served well and looked good, but not my cup of tea as they say. The Pierogi, on the other hand, were lovely, well tasty.
My friend ordered his own Pierogi and beers, so in total the bill came to about 35 Euros or less, which was fantastic value, very impressed with that price.
Good hearty, well cooked food, served with a smile, in a nice colourful restaurant with a very good ambiance……..
Recommended……
Food: 5 Service: 5 Atmosphere: 5
Kameralna Restauracja (2/5)
- Mikołaja Kopernika 3, 00-367 Warszawa, Poland
Warsaw was busy so we struggled to find a good place to dine, ventured off the main drag and ended up at this restaurant.
Nice homely atmosphere. A few customers and quiet enough to relax in.
Ordered cod in a beer batter, which sounded interesting, with fries and a coleslaw. 32 Polish, Euro about seven. Friend ordered some salad dish. Naturally all served with beers.
I have to be honest I was very disappointed with what got served. The cod was hard to cut into, and not what cod should really taste like, which is soft and crispy, the fries also were scant and coleslaw is coleslaw. It was basic, fair enough, but still could have done it better.
Food: 2 Service: 4 Atmosphere: 5
Indian Taste Restauracja Indyjska (5/5)
- Przemysłowa 36/LU1, 00-450 Warszawa, Poland
Was here twice.
Both times went for the “menu for two person” at 100 Polish zloty which is about 20 euros, you get a good selection of Indian dishes …chicken tikka, samosa, butter chicken, and other dishes I don’t know of, ha. With the naan bread of course. Its handy as it takes the time and effort off trying to order from the menu, as I don’t know a whole lot about Indian dishes. All washed down with some Goa beer, which isn’t bad at all
The food is served fast and with a smile, the staff are very friendly here. On both occasions and with different sets of friends, everyone enjoyed the food and the time here.
I always find Indian restaurants can be hit or miss, but this one is definitely top drawer stuff. Good food, very filling, and nice to get a good variety of dishes.
Recommend place to while away a few hours with friends over good food and drinks.
Food: 5 Service: 5 Atmosphere: 4
The Flame Restaurant & Bar (3/5)
- Odloty, strefa Schengen, Żwirki i Wigury 1, 02-143 Warszawa, Poland
In Chopin Airport, Warsaw, had a burger, chips and a beer while waiting for my flight.
Nice restaurant, ordered the bacon and cheese burger, with fries and a lager.
Food came pretty quick, and the burger was a tasty enough, but a little small in the content and I didn’t get many chips. Beer fine.
All in all, not too bad for about 20 Euros, so cant complaint too much.
Food: 3 Service: 3

AND PLACES TO SEE
Muzeum Świat Iluzji / Museum World of Illusion (4/5)
Rynek Starego Miasta 21, 00-272 Warszawa, Poland
Quirky museum but fun and well worth a look.
Not the biggest place in the world but enough to while away an hour and a lot of interesting things to see and try out…….optical illusions, tricks of the mind and lightning displays, etc…..
All Saints Church (3/5)
- Pl. Grzybowski 3/5, 00-115 Warszawa, Poland
Lovely statue of the great man himself, Pope John Paul, an icon in Poland.
Would have loved to go into the old church myself but there was Sunday service so.
Also they are doing up the old building so its not so pretty on the eye at the moment, still a nice peaceful place in the centre of Warsaw.

Polish National Museum in Warsaw (5/5)
Al. Jerozolimskie 3, 00-495 Warszawa, Poland
As a person more used to the football and the beer, I decided why not get some real “culture” for a change, so on an early Sunday morning I headed over to the National Museum of Warsaw, which wasn’t too far away from where I am staying.
The entrance fee was a nominal One Zloty (20 cents) and in I was. I had no plan of what I wanted to see, so went in with no ideas or specifics, just have a walk around and look at some great art work.
I have to say it is a very impressive museum, and I did learn a lot about Polish history from it….. some wonderful paintings and I was happy to while away a few hours here.
Three floors though, and if, you are like me, and want to see as much as you can, going down every nook and cranny, then you will spend about 2 or 3 hours here easily.
Suffice to say, I was well knackered after it all. It was great to see a lot of young kids around, getting a good education and learning. There is also a play and learning room for young kids, which if you have young kids, I do, is a great idea. Well done to the museum on that one.
All in all, it was a very enjoyable few hours.

Polish Army Museum (4/5)
- Cytadela Warszawska – Pawilon Południowy, Gwardii 4, 01-519 Warszawa, Poland
Hot on the heels of the National Museum, I quickly ventured into the war Museum, a stones throw away……
Immediately noticeable is that on display outside, and free to wander around, is a very decent collection of all sorts of armory and weaponry of tanks, rockets, bombs, jets and planes, a good collection of the beauty of war! Good to walk around and take a selfie. I pretended I was in Ukraine, and some actually believed me!
To go into the museum itself, it costs 20 Zloty (4 Euros), a very reasonable price.
The museum is very well spaced out and you head in one main direction and end of on a good tour of various campaigns that Poland was involved in, from the Warsaw uprising, the WW2 campaigns (In the UK as well-Polish air bombers), the fights with old foes like Russia (and Ukraine, which was surprising to me), ….and a general overview of the style of the uniforms and weapons of those times…. its quite extensive and very informative, with descriptions in Polish, obviously, and in English.
It was a long walk around, over an hour or more, and it was very good.
The only negative I might have is that there could be some interactive side to the museum, something more hands on – try on some similar styled war time uniforms, or hold some replica weapons, etc.
Overall, well worth a look, if for nothing else to see and learn about some of Poland’s long war time history.
Polish Army Stadium (4/5)
- Łazienkowska 3, 00-449 Warszawa, Poland
Legia Warsaw V Lechia Gdansk, 2-1
Location: Warsaw, April 2022
Good game of football, Legia deserved their win, although they had to hold on near the end…..
Crowd and support were fantastic, very noisy all through the game, nice bit of pyro at the start and a lot of good chants and flag waving……good support. Lechia fans too, singing most of the game, credit to them too.
Beer was flowing nicely, and fast food was on the go too……..
Facilities are fine, getting to and from ground no hassle…..
Club shop decent……..bought a scarf and hat.
No trouble getting match ticket, roughly 13 euros, although bit fecking annoying to be asked for ID to go to a football game, tsk tsk
All in all good fun and will be back again if possible!
Polonia Warsaw Stadium (5/5)
- Konwiktorska 6, 00-206 Warszawa, Poland
Came here for the game of Polonia Warsaw V Unia Skierniewice which the home team won 2-0.
An hour early, got my ticket, which as a foreigner I need to bring some photo ID to get in, nice and quick into the ground and immediately shepherded in to a VIP lounge. Great, and nice beers at the ready, Met two young lads from Amsterdam, and so the craic was flowing.
Game started, very decent crowd in for what was a lower league game, good noise created by the home supporters too…….. Game was good if not a little pedestrian…..but home team completely in control.
After the game hung out with a lot of home fans who were very hospitable, and shared with me some of their vodka. Ended up in the supporters bar in the ground……
All great fun, and the Polonia Warsaw fans made the occasion an unforgettable day out.
Good atmosphere, football and beer, and the craic at the ninety, I hope some day I can return. (I lost my camera that night too, god dammit, and with it all my pics of the day – but its long in the memory so that will have to do!)
Palace of Culture and Science (4/5)
- Pl. Defilad 1, 00-901 Warszawa, Poland
Lovely looking Tower, given to the Polish from Stalin as a gift back in the day…..
Nowadays its a cultural marker in a modern city surrounded by nice and shiny high rise office towers……it still holds its elegance well, and is a beautiful building to look at from below.
Going to the top, or at least some of the way to the top, one has to queue a little as its busy……. and with only one lift working on the day…..it did take half an hour to first buy a ticket, then get inline for the lift……
But at the top, the views are great, and one can see as far as the eyes can go of the city of Warsaw in all its splendid glory.
Great views at the top. Going back down again, another bit of a wait to the bottom…….another 20 or 30 minutes ….but I didn’t mind really as the lines were moving, just slowly!
Worth a visit to see the skyline of Warsaw
AND THE REST
Siłownia 24/7 Nowy Świat Warszawa | Well Fitness (5/5)
- Świętokrzyska 3, 00-360 Warszawa, Poland
Cheap gym, that is open 24 hours, which is very handy, has two floors of exercise machines, weights, etc. and plenty of options for a workout…
Easy to join up, staff were very helpful and I also found it no problem un-subbing.
I didn’t have any of the issues a lot of people seemed to have…..
SOME VIDEOS


Mokotowska 4/pok. 112, 00-641 Warszawa, Poland
aleja Tomasza Hopfera 11, 00-459 Warszawa, Poland
INDEKS Bar & Bistro (4/5)
Lwowska 17, 00-660 Warszawa, Poland
Al. Jerozolimskie 4, 00-375 Warszawa, Poland
Świętojańska 13, 00-288 Warszawa, Poland
Krakowskie Przedmieście 69, 00-071 Warszawa, Poland
Chmielna 13a, 00-021 Warszawa, Poland
Rynek Starego Miasta 21, 00-272 Warszawa, Poland
Al. Jerozolimskie 3, 00-495 Warszawa, Poland