Visiting Mongolia

Ulaanbaatar City Guide: Where to Eat, Drink & Experience the Soul of Modern Mongolia

Ulaanbaatar – the beating heart of Mongolia, a city I’ve fallen for after 4 visits. There’s something raw and magnetic about UB that just clicks. The people here are proper down-to-earth, tough as old boots from generations of wrestling with the elements, yet they’ve got this gentle, open soul underneath. You can feel their deep, almost spiritual connection to the land and the vast steppes – it echoes their warrior past in every handshake and quiet smile. And yeah, you can absolutely see it in their faces and bearing: these are the descendants of Genghis Khan, the man of Mongolia, the unifier who forged an empire from the saddle. That proud, resilient spirit is still very much alive.

At the same time, the city is transforming fast – money is pouring in from oil, gas, copper, coal, gold and all those rich minerals. Skyscrapers are shooting up, international brands are filling the shops, and there’s a real buzz and excitement about the future. It’s a young, lively capital where ancient nomadic roots meet modern energy, and the vibe is electric. You’ve got great cafes slinging serious coffee, modern restaurants blending Mongolian classics with international twists, hip bars pouring craft beers and creative cocktails, and an overall feeling that something big is happening here. It’s not polished like some Asian capitals, but that’s part of the charm – raw, real, and full of life.

Mongolian food is hearty, built for the steppe – think tender mutton, beef, buuz (steamed dumplings), khuushuur (fried pastries), tsuivan (stir-fried noodles), and salty milk tea (suutei tsai). But the scene has evolved: plenty of fusion spots now mix local ingredients with global techniques.

Cafes and bars are booming: Morning Street has become a trendy strip with early-opening spots, international options (Korean, Indian, etc.), and an easy outdoor vibe when the weather cooperates. Portions are usually generous, and the quality has stepped up with the economic boom.

Where to Drink & Nightlife

This is where UB really shines these days. The drinking and nightlife scene has leveled up dramatically in the last few years – from quiet to vibrant without losing its soul. Locals dress smart-casual and love a night out, especially in summer. Beer is big (local favorites like Chinggis, Golden Gobi, Sengur, or GEM), but craft options, cocktails, and live music are thriving.

One quirky UB hallmark: the surprising number of Irish pubs. They popped up years ago – some say from expats returning after stints in Ireland, others joke it was just the era when “Irish bar” became shorthand for any proper pub. Whatever the origin, they’ve stuck around and become local institutions. They’re great for a pint, pub grub, and that sociable atmosphere where conversations flow easily. I previously wrote about that here > Mongolia and Irish bars!

You’ll find everything from dive-y late spots to rooftop lounges with skyline views, smoky theatrical cocktails, and clubs for dancing if that’s your thing. The energy is sociable – Mongolians are welcoming, and a shared drink often leads to good chats about horses, the land, or the future.

And honestly? Some of my best nights in UB have ended with making lifelong friends – whether over a Chinggis beer in an Irish pub or a negroni in a sleek new spot. The people here have a way of pulling you in.

Beyond Food & Drink

Soak in the contrasts: Sukhbaatar Square for the central pulse, Choijin Lama Temple Museum or Gandan Monastery for Buddhist tranquility amid the urban sprawl, the Bogd Khaan Palace for a taste of royal history, or the National Museum of Mongolia for Genghis-era context and nomadic artifacts.

The city edges give way quickly to hills with views over the ger districts – a reminder that the steppe is never far. In summer, there’s a festival energy; in winter, the cold adds its own stark beauty.

UB can be dusty or bitterly cold depending on the season – pack layers and respect the elements (that warrior resilience isn’t just talk). Transport is improving but still a mix of taxis, rideshares, and walking the lively streets. ATMs and cards are more widespread now with the money flowing in, but have some cash handy. Haircuts, dry cleaning, and everyday services are straightforward and affordable.

Overall, Ulaanbaatar captures that perfect tension: deep-rooted, land-connected souls driving a city that’s charging toward a modern, mineral-fueled future. It’s exciting, genuine, and full of that quiet pride. If you love a place with heart, history in the faces, and a buzz in the air, UB delivers.

The next round’s on me – Chinggis beer, a well-made negroni, or a pint in one of those delightfully unexpected Irish pubs? Either way, you’ll feel the steppe calling even in the middle of the skyscrapers.

 

NIGHT TIME ACTIVITIES 

Grand Khaan Irish Pub (3/5)

  • Seoul St, SBD – 1 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 14251, Mongolia

The biggest Irish bar was The Grand Khaan Irish Pub, a good place for food, with great service, and where all the hot shots of the city hang out.

A bit expensive and really doesn’t offer much in terms of decent entertainment, but not that bad for a quite drink and a chat in the day time.

Dublin Irish pub (4/5)

  • WW74+GFP Seoul St, SBD – 4 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

My favourite Irish bar was The Dublin Irish Pub, which for an “Oirish bar” wasn’t too bad. They say they were the first Irish bar in the city, but truth be told the city still has to have a real authentic Irish pub.

I was a regular customer there and managed to get a tab running, which is always a bonus.

Had decent food, good music on the jukebox, had a chilled out atmosphere and sometimes on special nights an impromptu music session would get going.

The only negative was the bar staff had terrible English and were a bit dim.

S Lounge (2/5)

  • CHD – 4 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 15170, Mongolia

Not a lot happening at all when I was there, dead as a doornail.

Friendly service but little else.

Service: 4 Atmosphere: 1

Chinggis Beer Club (2/5)

  • CHD – 6 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Tired old place, definitely has that dull German look for sure, wooden and bygone decor, nothing exciting or snazzy about this place.

Bavarian style beers on tap…..under the Chinggis brand….. Ordered the dark, which wasn’t too bad to be fair.

Service was a bit slow and not so friendly.

Came here a second time, as it said it was a 24 hour pub, which did surprise me….but when I walked in they told me it was closed….so thanks for the wasted walk there.

Service: 3  Atmosphere: 1

CAFES 

Lotus Café & Mediation Center (4/5)

  • CHD – 4 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 15141, Mongolia

Nice decor and friendly vibe about the place, owner was kind and chatty. Got a mocha. very nice. Was here a few times, a good place to relax, check your emails, drink a coffee and chill.

Service: 5 Atmosphere: 4

 

 

RESTAURANTS

Modern Nomads (5/5)

  • Хүүхдийн урлан бүтээх төв, Metro mall-н урд, Бага тойруу, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Excellent. Met my old Mongolian friend and his family here for a nice big dinner.

We ordered a good few dishes…..the lambs head dish, some beef, some stir fries, some chicken dishes, some beef tongue…… all great, all delicious, all fabulous. The beef was my favourite, the sauce it was covered in was so good!

Over some beer, and good food, and the kids also got some ice cream, we all had a great time.

Lovely decor and good friendly and efficient service.

This visit to experience some traditional Mongolian food and with my friend and his oh so cute family, was definitely a highlight of my trip to UB.

Strongly recommended ,

Food: 5   Service: 5  Atmosphere: 5

 

Gusto restaurant (1/5)

  • Seoul St 48/14 6t Micro District, SBD – 4 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Hungry, and in desperate need of some nourishment and finding it a tad bit difficult to find a restaurant I was very happy to stumble upon this place.

Was just about to sit down on the couch when the young waitress said a big “no, no” and put out her hand…… wanting me to sit somewhere else.

Fine, except you’re not full and its in the middle of the day. That’s ok……another establishment so…….

Service: 1  Atmosphere: 1

Modern Nomads Restaurant (5/5)

  • MR2C+PCH Chinggis Khaan Airport, Töv, Mongolia

Lovely relaxing area to rest and wait for a friend.

Located on the second floor of the airport, at side, lots of comfortable seats and spaces to sit down on and order a coffee as you recuperate from a long journey Stayed here for an hour, and it was pleasant.

Also good to see outside the beautiful rolling hills of the Mongolia countryside, a nice introduction to the country.

Service: 5 Atmosphere: 5

Fountain Cafe & Restaurant (5/5)

  • WW97+7RV Jigjidjav St, CHD – 1 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 15160, Mongolia

Got a Mongolian traditional meat pie served with side salad, and two beers.

The food was served friendly and with a smile, and quick.

The dish was much larger than I had expected and so with great effort I finished it….Mongolian portions are quite big!

Nicely washed down with some beer, the pies were pretty good and filled me for the day.

Nice restaurant, with good efficient service and nice food. Also the price was very reasonable, coming in at just over 9 Euros, great value I think.

Food: 5   Service: 5  Atmosphere: 4

Pizza Hut (3/5)

  • SBD – 8 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 14200, Mongolia

Hungry and desperate tried pizza hut for some replenishment.

Ordered a regular pizza and some salami and cheesy fries, and to drink a bottle of water. Food was a little bit slow, had to wait over 20 minutes, but it was evening time I guess.

The service was friendly. The pizza was fine, and the fries were ok, albeit would have been nice to have a fork to use instead of my fingers.

Overall, just about edible…..nothing amazing.

Food: 3 Service: 4 Atmosphere: 3

Ruby Room UB (3/5)

  • Баруун Сэлбийн гудамж, CHD – 3 khoroo, Ulaanbaatar 15172, Mongolia

On their menu they had a lot of options for burgers but I ordered the three mini burgers and an extra plate of chips.

The burgers were ok, a bit dry and not as juicy as I would have liked, but I guess they did the business as I was hungry. They actually came with some chips as well so the extra order of chips was far too much for myself. The chips too were a bit dry and not crispy at all, very stodgy. But I honestly couldn’t eat so much food, so left a lot on the plate…..me bad! Portion sizes were very good it has to be said.

The place had a nice décor and there was a pleasant atmosphere in the burger bar.

Service was good and efficient.

With a big pint of beer, the total bill came to a very reasonable 14 Euros….. excellent value I think.

I wanted to like the burger, but to be honest I have had better. Sorry guys.

Food: 3  Service: 4  Atmosphere: 4

ACCOMODATION

Four Season Tour Guest house (4/5)

  • Khoroo 2 bldn 25 for 50000, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Friendly service, room had a desk, and Wi-Fi was fast, bed was comfortable enough and location was perfect, near the centre of the city.

Good affordable property for rent, no real complaints…

Only real negative was that the room was small, but for the price its ok.

Rooms: 4  Service: 5  Location: 5

 

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Beer drinker and all round annoyance. Likes drinking, football, cricket and having a good time.

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