My Time Living in Basel, Switzerland: An Honest Expat Guide to Life, Hiking & Family

I’ve lived in and around Basel, in north-western Switzerland, for the best part of ten years now. Two of my kids were born here, and after a decade, this country has worked its way deep into my heart. It’s not always the flashy, tourist-poster Switzerland that people imagine, but it’s real, it’s steady, and it’s become home.

Basel itself isn’t quite as postcard-pretty as Bern with its medieval old town, or as glamorous as Zürich with its lake, or as international as Geneva. It’s more grounded — a working city with a strong industrial and pharmaceutical backbone, sitting right where Switzerland, France and Germany meet along the mighty Rhine. But it has its own quiet charm: the colourful old town, the impressive Münster overlooking the river, and that steady flow of the Rhine that locals treat like their own personal summer playground.

What really takes my breath away, though, is the scenery across the whole country. Switzerland’s landscapes are simply out of this world. Drive an hour or two from Basel and you’re suddenly surrounded by beautiful lush green pastures that look almost too perfect to be real. Then come the amazing mountain peaks that rise dramatically against the sky, the lovely fresh waterfalls cascading down rock faces, and those deep, clear lakes reflecting it all. Even in the north-west, the Jura hills give you rolling, forested landscapes that feel wild and peaceful at the same time. In spring and summer the meadows explode with colour, and in autumn the forests turn golden. It never gets old.

Living here gave me the chance to explore far beyond Basel. The hiking is absolutely amazing — there are so many trails in this country it feels like there’s nearly one for every citizen. Many times I’ve set off on a route and had the whole mountainside to myself for hours. The Swiss are so fit and active it’s almost unfair. I’ve seen grannies cheerfully booting up steep paths, and women carrying their newborn babies in slings while hiking up serious mountains. They make it look effortless. One word of warning though: if a Swiss sign says “20 minutes to the next checkpoint,” double that time in your head if you’re an Ausländer. Trust me — it’ll save you some suffering and a few choice words along the way.

I’ve also caught football matches in different cities and hit the odd rock and punk concert in venues scattered around the country. From the big, self-important city of Zürich — which tends to look down on the rest of Switzerland as if it’s the only cool place that matters — to posh Geneva, to tiny, wealthy Zug (the letterbox city where half the world’s companies seem to hide), to Bern — the capital that isn’t quite the capital but is goddamn beautiful with its arcades and river — to Lucerne with its picture-perfect lake, to far-flung St. Gallen in the east, to Schaffhausen and its dramatic Rhine Falls… every corner feels different, yet somehow unmistakably Swiss.

One of the things I still find quietly amusing on train journeys is watching the ticket inspectors. They move through the carriage and can effortlessly switch between Swiss German, French, Italian, and then drop into perfectly polite English if needed. It’s a small thing, but it sums up how all the languages somehow work together here. In a country with four official languages, people just make it function — calmly and efficiently. It never fails to impress me.

The Swiss themselves can be quite Germanic at times — they love their rules, their regulations, and that business-like efficiency. Everything has its proper way and proper time. Yet they’re noticeably more relaxed about it than in Germany or Austria. They set the rules, point them out clearly, and then trust you to follow them — or not. Adults behave like adults, or not. COVID was a perfect example: they had their regulations in place, but they didn’t go overboard like some other nations. No hysteria, no extreme enforcement. Just calm, pragmatic guidance.

What really shows their independent streak is how they handled it all. Switzerland was one of the very few nations that held not one but three referendums on the COVID laws and vaccine passes. A good chunk of the population voted against them each time — even if the measures ultimately passed. You see that same independent-mindedness all the time in daily life: the cantons, the small valleys, and even individual regions often have their own rules and regulations, decided by the people who actually live there. It’s true representative democracy with a strong direct element — something that feels increasingly rare in a world where democracy often seems to have run its course.

The people here are a big part of why it feels like home too. They can come across as fierce and slow to chat at first. They value their privacy and don’t rush into small talk on the tram or in the lift. But once you get to know them, once you’ve shared a few evenings, helped out at school, or joined a neighbourhood gathering, they turn out to be some of the most reliable, loyal, and genuinely great people you could hope to know. Dry humour, straightforward honesty, and a real sense of community once you’re inside the circle.

I also love the Swiss style of politics — the canton system. In theory (and often in practice), everyone has a voice. The decentralized way the country runs, with real power sitting at the cantonal and even communal level, feels refreshingly different from many places I’ve lived. It means decisions that affect daily life are made closer to the people who actually live there, rather than handed down from some distant capital. There’s a direct democracy element that still surprises me — the way citizens can actually vote on specific issues multiple times a year. It’s not perfect, of course, but it gives you a sense that your opinion can matter if you choose to engage.

Family life here has been wonderful. My kids speak Swiss German with that lovely Basel lilt, they run around in safe streets and excellent playgrounds, and they benefit from top-quality schools and healthcare. The rhythm of daily life suits me: trains and trams that actually run on time, clean air, well-kept forests and parks, and the ability to hop across borders for a quick change of scenery or a different supermarket experience.

Of course, there are negatives — and they’re real. Switzerland is an expensive place to live, especially if you’re coming from elsewhere. Eating out is particularly painful; it’s easily the most expensive I’ve experienced anywhere, on a par with Hong Kong in my book. A simple meal with a glass of wine can make your eyes water. Beer in the bars is the same story — pretty steep prices that would make even Dublin blush these days. Even travelling on the trains, which are world-class and punctual, can be shockingly expensive. Without a Swiss Travel Pass or Half-Fare Card, a single journey can cost as much as a short-haul flight. I used the Swiss Card for a while and it helped a lot, but it’s still not cheap once you add it all up.

Having said that, it’s not all bad on the money front. Shopping for food and drinks at the supermarket is much more manageable. I can grab a decent can of Coop beer for about 60 cents, which takes the edge off nicely when you’re having a quiet one at home. Groceries in general are pricey compared to many countries, but with a bit of planning (and knowing where the deals are), it’s doable.

The scenery, the incredible hiking, the multilingual efficiency, the pragmatic yet independent Swiss mindset, the people, the direct democracy, and the sheer variety you can experience in such a small country — it all adds up to something special. Switzerland didn’t just give me a place to live. It gave my family roots in a country that still feels a bit magical, even on the ordinary days when the bill at the restaurant or the train ticket reminds you exactly where you are.

If you ever find yourself in the Basel region, take a walk along the Rhine, drive out into the Jura or further into the Alps when you can, catch a football match, hunt down a decent gig, or better yet — lace up your boots and hit the trails. Give the locals a proper chance. They’re worth getting to know. And the landscapes? They’ll do the rest.

PLACES TO EAT

Restaurant Grünerbaum (5/5)

Heinrich Moser-Platz 1, 8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall

Knowing I could walk from Schaffhausen to Neuhausen am Rheinfall, I decided to make a trip to the family run Restaurant CM Brauhaus as I read they brew their own beer, and felt it might be an interesting place to see.

I kind of messed up as the walk, which I had done many times before, was longer than I had remembered. So in actual fact I only made it to one bar for the day out due to this excessive extra trip. But it was worth it as the bar/restaurant is a treasure.

Within the centre of the restaurant there are two bigger copper kettles where the house beer and seasonal beers are regularly brewed. The vaulted cellar is where most of the magic happens, located directly below the restaurant, where all the brews are fermented and stored until served cold at the bar.

The CM Brauhaus restaurant opened its doors for the first time as a Brauhaus restaurant in 2016. The interior has a very modern feel to it yet their is also a nod to its vintage location as there are some artifacts to brewery and local history dotted around. Its a nice place to sit down and relax.

I ventured in to see the copper tanks, but many people were seated outside enjoying their food and beers with the lovely day that it was. A nice atmosphere at the brewhouse, everyone enjoying themselves. A definite touristy kind of feel going on, happy to be out and about.

I didn’t go for any food, which looked damn good on what I saw coming out of the kitchen, I probably should have, but decided to have the house beer, which was a pale ale, nourishment enough I guessed. Service was fast and very friendly, they also charged my phone on request which was kind of them.

The beer was served cold and was FANTASTIC, well worth the long walk. You know the beer was good as I ordered another one, breaking my one beer one pub rule. Liked it here a lot, has a very homely and relaxing feel to the place, and one where I could have happily spent longer. And the beers were to die for.

Often these places can be very pretentious but this brew house was brilliant, and I hope I can return in the near future.

PLACES TO SEE

Merian Gardens (5/5)

Vorder Brüglingen 5, 4052 Basel, Switzerland

Really wasn’t expecting much but was pleasantly surprised.

A gorgeous park, nicely set gardens and walkways, a lovely stream running through the park, a pretty lake with loads of birds, some farm yard animals, and even though it was mid winter there was still a lot to see.

So good that we didn’t even get to see most of the park, and the best part was it was free!!!

Looking forward to going back to complete the park!

Hagenbächli (4/5)

Hagenbachweg, 4133 Pratteln, Switzerland

Not anything to see in itself, but as part of a nice walk around the area and hills…… can get a pretty good view of the town of Pratteln and of Basel off in the distance….

Nice place for a rest and to take a breather

MOUNTAINS AND HIKING

Mont Raimeux (5/5)

2745 Grandval, Switzerland

Last weekend did the Jura Canton Highest peak, Mont Raimeux, 1,302 m. Took a 5 hour and a bit route starting and ending from the small town of Moutier, in the direction of Raimeux de Belprahon, to the peak, Mont Raimeux, then down to Le Petit Pre, through the woods, and right around to the town of Corcelles and back to Moutier.

Was a lovely day, hottest yet I think, but lucky enough most of the route was either under the cover of trees or a strong cool breeze was in my direction (cold winds from the Alps?), which was well refreshing.

Arriving early by train at Moutier, had a quick wander around the small town, and by 10:00 I was ready to start the hike.

The trail to the peak was very easy to do, round and round a forest trail going up and up to the first port of call. Raimeux de Belprahon, after that through very scenic farming land in the presence of cows with their bells (does it not drive the cows mad?), eventually arriving at the top, where there was a bit of activity, with people chilling out, having lunch, and enjoying the views from the peak. You can see the snow covered Alps far off in the distance, and if you have a head for heights can climb the observation tower to get a really great overview of the Jura.

The trek down to Le Petit Pre was the clear highlight for me. A quiet track with views of the Jura on one side, through the forest and occasionally having to go through some more fields with cows a grazing. It was so refreshing that I stopped more than once to take it all in. I could have returned to Moutier much, much quicker, but what’s the hurry when one can have a lie down, drink a lager in a field under a tree in the midday sun, and let the world go by. Who needs a beach holiday, when you have the Jura! Bliss, was in the zone, ha!

But the negative, and there is always a negative, was that the last hour back to Moutier, via Corcelles, was directly under the sun, at its hottest, with no shade. That was a hard walk back to town, lovely views but hard all the same. Especially for the pale skinned Irish lad!

Had a sit down beer and chips in a small restaurant, was a good stop on the way to Moutier. Amazing how tasty a cold beer and chips with ketchup can taste when one is tired. Its the simple things…..

Anyway another peak off my list. 5 down now. Eager to up it to the 2000 metre ones now, but the football will be on soon (Euro Champs) so I am not sure how that will work out…… Would say this peak was easily my favourite so far…..